Cheese and Culture by Paul Kindstedt

 

For all of the contemporary enthusiasm about cheese, I’m surprised by how little has been written about the history of the cheese and dairy industry in general. Now that’s starting to change, most recently with the publication of Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and its Place in Western Civilization by Paul Kindstedt.

In his first book, American Farmstead Cheese, author Paul Kindstedt devoted the first section to a brief historical overview, and spent the balance of the book discussing the finer points of cheese chemistry. Kindstedt notes in the introduction to Cheese and Culture that he wrote the history part of that first book in order to grab readers’ interest and provide context for what was intended to be a technical manual. But in the process he became fascinated with the depth and complexity of all of the history that he’d begun to uncover…. and in his new book, Kindstedt revisits the historical side of that earlier project in much more depth.

In Cheese and Culture, Kindstedt focuses primarily on the ancient origins of the production of dairy products and cheesemaking. It’s heady stuff: evidence of dairying goes back not just centuries but millennia to as early as 6500 BC in southwest Asia. Technological advances such as the development of the draft of pottery making led to the creation of sieves and strainers that early cheesemakers used to funnel the whey off of coagulated dairy products, enabling the production of increasingly larger quantities of cheese. By 3000 BC, Kindstedt says, cheesemaking was a firmly entrenched part of Egyptian culture. Rennet-coagulated cheeses emerged later and by the era of the Greek and Roman empires (extending through about 500 AD) cheese was an integral part of both the diet and way of life of each of these civilizations.

Kindstedt devotes a lot of time to unpacking the finer points of ancient history; much of it is complex and fascinating, though some reviewers have commented on what they perceive as an “academic” tone to the book. Most interesting for me was Kindstedt’s examination (starting in Chapter 6) of the more modern origins of styles of cheeses that still exist today – though in this context “modern” is relative and we’re still looking back at least one thousand years. While it can be hard to visualize what types of cheese might have been made in Ancient Egypt (though Kindstedt does his best to guess), his take on the gradual evolution of more familiar types of cheese is thoroughly engrossing….eating Brie just got a lot more interesting.

In a recent interview on Anne Saxelby’s Cutting the Curd, Kindstedt opined that “If cheese can help us understand the origin of civilization, it can help us understand who we are as a species.” If food could be said to be a necessary foundation of human culture, then it makes sense that cheese would be a lens through which we might view its development. With Cheese and Culture, Kindstedt has made a valuable contribution to our understanding of the ancient origins of a food still very much enjoyed today.

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Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and its Place in Western Civilization
by Paul Kindstedt
Chelsea Green
288 pages $24.95 hardcover

see the publisher’s page here for a summary of news, book-related events and Paul Kindstedt’s appearances and interviews.

Ultimate Cheese Challenge February 26, 2012 in Portland

Ultimate Cheese Challenge
February 26, 2012 in Portland
Choose from 1 of 4  2-hr sessions

Portland cheese aficionados may recall the 101 Cheeses Event of a few years back… Now Steve Jones of Cheese Bar, in partnership with Tabla Mediterranean Bistro presents the Ultimate Cheese Challenge on Sunday February 26th, 2012.

Here’s how it works: attendees can choose from several 2 hour sessions throughout the day (see ticket link below for times). Show up at the appointed hour and sample from among Steve’s cheese picks (36 of them in all) to your heart’s content. Experiment with the variety of wines, beers and ciders available and come up with your favorite pairings. Portland’s 33 Books will provide each guest with its 33 Pieces of Cheese journal in which you can record your tasting and pairing impressions. Pace yourself. Sample from the fabulous cured meats provided by Fino in Fondo Salumeria of McMinnville.

Live music will be on tap throughout the day, provided by Stuart Wylen & Jill McArthur as well as Gentle Surprise and Dave.

Tickets are $49 and are available online here.

2011 American Cheese Society Awards ::: Northwest Winners

Results are in once again for this year’s 2011 American Cheese Society competition. The contest has been growing steadily each year and set yet another record in 2011 with over 1,600 cheeses entered. One of the stories this time around was the Canadian dominance in many categories. Perhaps because the contest and conference were held in Montreal this year, Canadian cheesemakers felt empowered to enter  – and as the results show, the cheese up north is that good! I can certainly vouch for the cheeses of British Columbia, which are consistently outstanding…but more on that later.

Because there’s other big news for local cheese lovers of the Pacific NW – HUGE honors go to owners David Gremmels & Cary Bryant and all of the folks at Oregon’s Rogue Creamery, who took the coveted Best in Show for the second time in three years for their fantastic and amazing Rogue River Blue.

Pacific Northwest cheesemakers took 25 ribbons overall this year – 26 if you count the Best in Show award. That’s down quite a bit from 42 last year, when the competition was held in our backyard, i.e. Seattle. (See last year’s results here).

Here are the 2011 local winners:

Overall Best in Show

Rogue River Blue – Rogue Creamery (OR)

♣  ♣  ♣  ♣  ♣  ♣  ♣  ♣

 

Beecher’s Handmade Cheese (WA)

3rd Place – Original Recipe Sheep’s Milk or Mixed Milk – Flagsheep

2nd Place – Cheddar (Extra Mature 25-48 mo) – 4 yr Flagship Reserve

1st Place -   Cheddar w/ Peppers  – Marco Polo Reserve

3rd Place -  Smoked Cheeses, Cheddar – Flagship (smoked)

3rd Place – Cheddar, Wrapped in Cloth – Flagship Reserve

 

Briar Rose Creamery (OR)

1st Place – Fresh Goat’s Milk Cheese/Flavor Added – Chocolate Goat Cheese Truffles

 

Goat’s Pride Dairy (BC)

3rd Place – Feta (Goat’s Milk)

3rd Place – Feta (Flavor Added) – Cranberry Caprabella

 

Happy Days Dairies (BC)

2nd Place – Marinated Cheeses – Goat Cheese in Herbs & Oil

3rd Place – Cultured Products (Goat’s Milk) – Goat’s Milk Kefir

3rd Place -  Cheese Spreads – Probiotic Cheese Spread

 

Lark’s Meadow Farm (ID)

3rd Place – Aged Sheep’s Milk – Dulcinea Extra Reserve

1st Place – Open Category Sheep/Mixed Milk – Dulcinea

 

Mt. Townsend Creamery (WA)

2nd Place – Smoked Cheeses (Cow’s Milk) – Campfire

 

Rivers Edge Chevre (OR)

2nd Place – Smoked Cheeses (Open Category) – Up in Smoke

 

Rogue Creamery (OR)

1st Place – Blue Vein w/ Rind or Exterior Coating – Rogue River Blue

3rd Place – Rindless Blue Vein, Sheep’s Milk/Mixed Milk – Echo Mountain Blue

3rd Place – Cheddar, Sweet Flavorings – Chocolate Stout Cheddar

 

Samish Bay Cheese Co. (WA)

2nd Place – Hispanic/Portuguese Cheese, Flavor Added – Queso Jalapeno

 

Tillamook County Creamery Association (OR)

3rd Place – American Originals – Monterey Jack (cow’s milk)

1st Place – American Originals – Colby (cow’s milk)

3rd place  – Cheddar (Extra Mature 25-48 mo) – Vintage White Extra Sharp Cheddar

3rd Place – Light/ Reduced Fat – Reduced Fat Monterey Jack

 

Tumalo Farms (OR)

1st Place – Farmstead Cheese (Open Category) – Classico

2nd Place – American Made/International Style – Rimrocker

 

♣  ♣  ♣  ♣  ♣  ♣  ♣  ♣

 

For a complete list of all winners in all categories, see here.

Kurtwood Farms Dinah’s Cheese Coming Soon to Portland!

You may have heard of the delectable Dinah’s cheese…made by Kurt Timmermeister on Vashon Island in Seattle, this camembert-style cow’s milk cheese is on many people’s top ten NW cheese lists. It’s a luscious, buttery, velvety creation that takes you by surprise with its authoritative flavor.

Like many cheeses in the northwest, Dinah’s cheese is a micro-batch creation that’s (until now) been available near the source – which means the Seattle area. But today I’ve got good news for Portlanders….Kurt Timmermeister tells me that thanks to distributor Provvista, we’ll be able to enjoy Dinah’s cheese every day of the week. Look for it at fine Portland cheese shops starting in August! Seriously, Dinah’s Cheese will change how you think about local cheese.

 

Briar Rose Creamery Goat Cheese Truffles

photo courtesy Angelina Williamson

Fresh goat’s milk cheese (also known as fresh chevre) is a natural in combination with other things…its mild lemony tartness makes a great base for any number of flavors both sweet and savory: herbs, flowers, honey and chilies are just a few of the possibilities. So why not chocolate?

Why not indeed! Briar Rose Creamery’s Goat Cheese Truffles are here for you. Newly minted Oregon cheesemaker Sarah Marcus says she got the idea for goat cheese truffles while doing an internship with another cheesemaker a few years ago; she’s since worked hard on tweaking the recipe. She experimented with a number of different chocolates before coming up with the precise formula for these beauties…as you might imagine, different chocolates delivered very different flavor profiles. “Some of the experimental truffles ended up fruitier than others and some had a flat, waxy texture. Some had hints of flowers. I had fun hosting focus groups, letting people try the truffles made with each different chocolate,” says Marcus. She also tested seven different cocoa powders before finding one that was just right for dusting the outside of the truffles. “Wouldn’t you know that a high fat cocoa powder tastes better than a regular cocoa powder!”

Marcus’ dedication shows: all of that hard work has resulted in a great tasting product as well as an example of creativity in artisan cheesemaking. Both delicate and decadent at the same time, these goat cheese/chocolate truffles are bite sized and totally addictive. They’re creamy and slightly tangy, warmly chocolate-y with a comforting underlying note of sweetness. In other words, sensational. In fact, so good are these truffles that they can be called ‘award-winning,’ as they took second place overall in the confections category at the American Dairy Goat Association competition earlier this year.

* * * *

Briar Rose Creamery Goat Cheese Truffles are available in Portland at Cheese Bar, in Eugene at Sundance Natural Foods, in McMinnville at Abbie and Oliver’s and in Seattle at Calf and Kid. You can also find them at the upcoming Season’s Eatings event in Portland on Saturday December 11th, which will be held at New Deal Distillery in Portland.

For a complete list of retail outlets for all of Briar Rose Creamery’s products, see the website here.

Blueberry Fromage Blanc Parfait

Since it’s blueberry season I thought I’d re-run one of my favorite berry recipes. This lovely treat combines fresh blueberries and fromage blanc. Enjoy!

Blueberry Fromage Blanc Parfait, Blueberry RecipeWhen I was putting together my book I developed a few easy cheese recipes… I’m definitely not a chef but I found that it was fun to think outside the box a little bit about using cheese in combination with other flavors. This recipe in particular, using artisan made fromage blanc, takes advantage of berry season. You could use any type of berry in this recipe – raspberry, boysenberry or even stone fruit like fresh peaches or apricots. Enjoy!

Blueberry Fromage Blanc Parfait

8oz artisan fromage blanc
1 tsp lemon zest (plus additional for garnish)
2 tsp honey, or more to taste
1/2 pint fresh blueberries

Combine fromage blanc, lemon zest and honey in a bowl. Taste for desired sweetness, as fromage blancs will vary in flavor and tanginess. Aim for a subtle sweetness that balances the cheese without overwhelming it.

In two 6 oz juice glasses, layer fromage blanc, then blueberries, then more fromage blanc and more blueberries. Add an extra bit of lemon zest on top, if desired.

Makes two small parfaits

From Artisan Cheese of the Pacific Northwest by Tami Parr

An Afternoon Pairing Cheese and Tea

Steven Smith TeamakerTypically when we think about pairing beverages with cheese our minds gravitate directly to wine and/or beer. And there’s a reason we come back to these pairings again and again – the amazing, sometimes revelatory experiences these combinations offer up. The problem is, there’s a tendency to stop with wine and beer, as if the cheese adventure ended there.

But with the growing popularity of exceptional small batch, handmade cheese these days, people are starting to think outside of the proverbial box (the cheese box?). I’m glad to see that we’re moving away from thinking of cheese as a strictly formal food, only to be eaten ceremonially. In Europe, Scandinavia and the Mediterranean, where indigenous cheeses have been made
for hundreds or even thousands of years, cheese is much more of an everyday part of a meal….and it’s not at all out of the ordinary to consume cheese alongside coffee, spirits or tea.

Continue reading

An Olympics Guide to Cheese in Vancouver, BC

Flower Chevre CheeseSeems like everyone is weighing in on all of the best places to eat and drink in Vancouver, BC during the Olympics, so I’m going to jump right in. One of the many great things about Vancouver is its unabashed enthusiasm for two of my favorite things – tea and cheese (maybe it’s a British colonial thing?)…in any event, here’s a roundup of what to eat and do, cheese-wise, in Vancouver, BC.

Les Amis du Fromage Cheese lovers, this is it – Vancouver’s cheese destination. Get to Les Amis du Fromage by any means necessary. They’ve got three locations in the city and the Hastings St. location is also home to Au Petit Chavignol, a wine/cheese bar. You’ll find a fabulous selection of locally made cheeses as well as a huge spread of French cheeses, many of which you don’t see very often in the US.

Granville Island Market Granville Island will be the official home to the French Quarter during the Olympics, so I can only imagine the crowds will far exceed those at Granville Island even on a sunny summer day. Nevertheless, the Granville Island Market is home to a number of great cheese shops and the lovely and amazing Oyama Sausage Company, the coolest charcuterie and cured meats shop in the Pacific Northwest. Yes, I did just say that.

Other cheese shops and retail outlets with good cheese include Mt. Pleasant Cheese Co. on Cambie (this will be easy to get to because it’s right on the Canada Line); Benton Brothers Fine Cheese and Meinhardt Fine Foods. The larger markets generally have a good selection of artisan made cheeses as well, like Capers on Robson (they still call it Capers but really it’s a Whole Foods) and Urban Fare with several locations including Yaletown.

The Vancouver Farmers Market The Vancouver Winter Market is going full swing through the Olympics and generally you’ll find several local cheesemakers with stalls there.

And if you’re feeling like getting away from the Olympic crowds, you might check out The Farm House Natural Cheeses in Agassiz, about an hour or so east of Vancouver. Debra Amrein-Boyes is making some of the best cheeses in the province at this lovely farm in the Fraser Valley.

BC Cheeses Not to Miss Keep your eyes out for cheese from these British Columbia cheesemakers: Salt Spring Island Cheese Co. (especially their lovely flowered chevres, and also the Montaña if you can find it); Poplar Grove’s Tiger Blue, Carmelis Goat Cheeses, Moonstruck Organic Cheese and Hilary’s Artisan Cheeses.

 

Leftover Cheese

In the cheese world we tend to put a lot of emphasis on cheese by itself – pretty looking cheese, cheese plates and cheese courses. This is all well and good but if you're like me you might serve a cheese plate at a dinner party or whatever…..and then you end up with all of these leftover pieces of cheese. Generally, at least in my case, these bits tend to sit for months on end because I feel too guilty to throw them out…until I am, finally, forced to dispose of them because they've dessicated to hard unrecognizable bits. In an effort to use up what I have, throw less away and diversify, I've come up with some ideas for using up leftover cheese and I thought I'd share them with you.

1. Make Grilled Cheese  Call it a legacy from childhood, but I tend to get caught up in the idea that a grilled cheese, by definition, can only have one kind of cheese in it. Usually cheddar. But now that all of us are grown up and evolved, it's time to break the chains of severe recipe myopia and – gasp – combine cheeses in one sandwich. Seriously, combining cheeses makes for some great flavor combinations. Just the other day I combined some sharp cheddar, Juniper Grove Tumalo Tomme and La Mariposa Cinquo Esquinas and the results were outstanding. (xtra tip: grate small amounts of cheese for quicker melting).

2.  Baking Projects   Some cheese shops and restaurants deal with cheese leftovers by using them in products like crackers or pastries. This is a really easy way to do something with stray bits of cheese – plus it makes for a fun, kid-friendly project. Most comprehensive cookbooks have recipes but here's one I like here and another here.

3.  Dogs Love Cheese  I have yet to meet a dog that doesn't love little bits of extra cheese and/or cheese rinds. In moderation, of course! If you have backyard chickens, they will eat cheese too -  a favorite trick of cheesemakers is to feed the bad experiments to the chickens.

4. Fondue  Yes, the classic fondues require Emmenthaler and Gruyere – and I wouldn't necessarily stray from these base cheeses altogether because they guarantee good consistency – but go ahead and throw in some of that Mt. Townsend Trailhead or WSU Cougar Gold. Any good melting cheese will work here.

5.  Grate it and Melt it  If you usually grate cheddar on your chili dogs you'll probably really like Fontina, for example. Small amounts of grated cheese add a nice protein boost to salads as well. Grate cheese over a bit of pasta for lunch, or think bruschetta. Potatoes Au Gratin. The possibilities are as limited – oops, I mean as unlimited – as your imagination.

6.  Add Rinds to Soups  This is a classic technique of Italian cuisine – add the rinds of Parmigiano Reggiano to a soup like Minestrone for a savory flavor boost (recipe example here). Use leftover rinds of any naturally rinded aged cheese – i.e. a style of cheese not coated in plastic to protect the rind during the aging process.

7.   Fricos  Have you ever made Parmesan Crisps (aka Fricos)? These are really simple to make and deliver impressive results, and the recipe will work other styles of harder aged cheeses (i.e. low moisture cheeses) as well. Do a Google search for recipes or find one here.

8. Lunches  Think outside the sandwich box: take that small leftover hunk of Rogue River Blue with you to work, along with a pear and some good bread and call it exceptional. A nice alternative to the same ol' carrot sticks or – worse – plastic-packaged string cheese. Or if you want to go all out do a classic Ploughman's Lunch with cheese, bread, chutney and pickled vegetables.

Do you have other ideas or techniques for using up leftover cheese? Leave a comment and let us all know.

On Restaurant Cheese Plates

DSC_0029 Ordering the cheese plate at a restaurant can be something of a dicey proposition. Last night at a restaurant in the Portland area, we were told the three cheeses on their artisan cheese plate were Rogue River Blue (it wasn't), a smoked Gouda (it wasn't) and a cheddar from Switzerland (I'm not even sure there is such a thing). A mess, right? Though the blue cheese had no leaf wrapping, we were assured that, indeed, this was the one that had just won that big award (I suspect it might have been Rogue Caveman Blue instead). The 'smoked gouda' turned out to be, of all things, Rivers Edge Astraea, a distinctive aged goat's milk cheese from Oregon with a cinnamon dusted rind. I didn't bother pursuing the mysterious Swiss Cheddar; perhaps they were attempting to communicate that it tasted like a cheddar. Too much work, you know?

I've lost count of how many times this type of thing has happened when I order a cheese plate at a restaurant. Quite often servers confuse sheep with goats; once a server insisted that an obviously non-blue cheese was in fact blue. One related the story of a cheese that was actually the story of another dairy in another state (that person gets credit, at least, for being in the ballpark). And more often than not, the cheese presented on a cheese plate is cold, straight from the refrigerator, when it should be warmed to room temperature. While many of these same restaurants treat wine with such reverence that they hire specific people with advanced educations (sommeliers) to serve it, they seem to approach cheese as if it is a mysterious substance from, perhaps, another planet. And don't get me started about cheese carts…

I know running a restaurant is a tough business. But restaurants, I think there are some things you can do to improve this sad state of affairs. First off, consider whether you have the time, money or even the interest in serving a cheese plate or cheese course. Because, like many things, if you can't do cheese well, there is no point in doing it at all. Second, if you are going to serve cheese you have a few obligations: one – learn about your producers, whether local or european; two – learn to take care of the cheese you buy; and three – educate your staff and make sure the right messages are making it on your menu and being communicated to your customers. The cheesemaker who works 18 hour days milking animals and making cheese that you buy expects and deserves to be represented well. And if, like many restaurants these days, you want to project the image that you're committed to local products and local farmers, you have to be able to back it up. Your customers will recognize the difference.

Here's some free advice: one of the simplest things you can do to improve the situation is to list the cheeses you're serving directly on your menu. So, for example, you might say you are carrying Valdeon (cow/goat, Spain), Tomme de Savoie (cow, France) and Rivers Edge Sunset Bay (goat, Oregon). Front load your menu so that you aren't putting the burden on your servers, who already have too much to do. This way you're ensuring that the right information gets to your customers directly. You will eliminate a lot of questions that way and if customers do want to ask for more information, you can pursue these questions individually and with more authority. Here's an example of what I consider a simple, well executed cheese menu from Lark in Seattle.

Do you have a story to tell about an experience with a restaurant cheese plate – whether from a server, chef or customer perspective?